Our Life in Burgundy

Cluny celebrated its Illuminations and Marché de l’Avent last night. As usual, being oblivious to what’s going on, we arrived too late for the parade by lamplight through the town. We did however enjoy wandering through the streets looking at the vitrines, the decorated shop windows, and the candles in the houses. Along  rue Lamartine there were several garden sheds displaying scenes and crèches made by the schoolchildren

Near the market square we bumped into St Nicolas and his side-kick, Père Fouettard, otherwise known as Black Peter. St Nicolas is an impressive sight with his white beard, standing tall in his red robes with mitre and crosier. Père Fouettard is short and evil with a black face and afro wig. He carries a sack of coal and a stick. It is his job to beat the bad children and leave coal in their slippers instead of presents. I think if I had met him as a child I would have been terrified into behaving better.

We met with friends and enjoyed a chocolat chaud in the café on rue Lamartine and went on to the Ecuries Saint-Hughes where handmade chocolates and pottery were for sale. We listened to a local choir sing a very catchy selection of gospel songs, then it was the turn of la Chorale La Clunisya who had also performed in the Church of Notre Dame.

During the evening the calèche was busy providing tours round the town. The calèche is a shiny black carriage pulled by two handsome Comtois horses.  The Comtois are light chestnut with flaxen manes and tails.  Originating from the nearby Jura, they are the everyday farm horses in this area.

We didn’t stay late as the rain set in and it became colder. At the beginning of this week we had a  strong wind from the south which had brought warm wet weather. Yesterday evening in Cluny started at a balmy 15°. Today we’re back to zero but it’s dry.

This beautiful photo of  the lights on rue Lamartine was kindly sent to me by Jean-Jacques Chabert, as, unusually for me, I forgot to take my camera.

Christmas lights in Cluny