Our Life in Burgundy

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December 6, 2011

Johé Gormand

Filed under: Events,People,Village Life — Tags: , , — Mary @ 20:25

I am constantly amazed by the artistic talent in Cortambert, both now and in former times. At the moment there is a lot of local interest in Johé Gormand, a painter and sculptor who lived in Toury, a hamlet of Cortambert, until she died in 1963. During her life her talent was not recognised and after her death when the house was cleared her art would have been destroyed had it not been for a collector who managed to save it. Her work is now on display at the Musée des Ursulines in Mâcon and will be the subject of guided tours and discussions until the end of January.

Dancing figures made of vine wire and cement

Dancing figures made of vine wire and cement

Johé Gormand lived in extreme poverty. Her father and brother had died early leaving Johé and her mother with little income. She used whatever materials were available such as old vine wire and cement tinted pink for her sculptures. Her paintings were on old hessian bags, wallpaper samples or bits of cloth sewn together and put on stretchers. She painted in Indian ink or watercolours. Her productive years spanned from1940 until her death in 1963.

Her art is described as “Art Brut” or “outsider art”. This is work which lies outside the boundaries of official culture. The term was first coined in the 1920s when psychiatrists became interested in the prolific creativity of mental patients in asylums, but now it applies to the work of anyone who is self-taught and is not influenced by art schools, galleries or mainstream art. There is a museum of Art Brut in Lausanne, Switzerland, with pieces collected by Jean Dubuffet in the 1940s.  “These people have produced, from the depths of their own personalities and for themselves and no one else, works of outstanding originality in concept, subject and techniques. They are works which owe nothing to tradition or fashion”.

 Johé Gormand was severely traumatised by the war. This seemed to leave a void in her which she tried to fill with her art.  Her most famous work, “Ronde de la Paix” is a series of watercolours featuring popular dances which symbolized peace and her hope for the brotherhood of all nations.

One of the series of La Ronde de la Paix 1955

One of the series of La Ronde de la Paix 1955

She also wrote two journals, the day book and the night book. The day book contained notes on her day to day activities and her hopes. “Je sens vivre en moi un grand espoir… comme si j’attendais quelque chose d’heureux” However the night book gave an insight into her dreams and visions which were quite often horrifying. She was a tortured soul. Was her art was born of depression and psychosis?

 

Journal de jour December 1960

Journal de jour December 1960

Johe Gormand was isolated and hid her work from her mother with whom she lived in Toury. But to help her stay in contact with reality she wrote and illustrated topics from the journals she subscribed to, showing her very eclectic tastes… La Chine Populaire, La Chine, Les Etudes soviétiques, Les lettres françaises, Horizons, La Culture et la Vie

Like so many artists Johé was not appreciated in her lifetime. I wonder what she would think of the exhibition in Mâcon nearly half a century later. Would she agree with the art experts? Was she aware of Art Brut and did she think of her work as such?

Nowadays we still have a sculptor resident in Cortambert. A mostly happy one. He uses flotsam and jetsam for his works, which is rather unusual seeing we are about as far as you can get from the sea. He exhibits at the local wine events and at craft markets. You would know if you saw his house as he has a bicycle on the roof…

Sea and sand - an exhibition by our local sculptor

Sea and sand - an exhibition by our local sculptor

April 16, 2011

Happy Birthday TGV

Filed under: Events,People,Places — Tags: , — Mary @ 22:57

We hadn’t realised that last week was the 30th birthday of the TGV until we saw a wonderfully decorated train with swirls of pink and huge ‘30’s painted on the side whoosh by near Mâcon. It had been inaugurated by the President of SCNF to carry an exhibition of the history of the TGV around France between now and July.

The 30th anniversary TGV

The 30th anniversary TGV

 Apparently the TGV was the saviour of the French railways. It’s incredibly popular and provides a fast, easy way to get around France.

The first TGV line was between Paris and Lyon and the network soon expanded to connect Paris to cities across Europe and link with their high speed railways. It’s only 2 hours from Paris to Lyon and 3 hours from Paris to Marseille (560 miles) and to Bordeaux (580 miles).

Many of the passengers are commuters.  Places as far as Tours are now in the communter belt for Paris. We have several neighbours who work in Lyon, only half an hour from Mâcon.

The UK with its single high speed line to the Channel Tunnel could do with taking note. All we hear about are endless consultations. The Birmingham link by 2032? Well I won’t be here to see it.

September 30, 2010

The End of Summer?

Filed under: Events,Weather — Tags: , , — Mary @ 00:19
The Cloisters at Cluny Abbey

The Cloisters at Cluny Abbey

It is beginning to feel as if summer is drawing to a close this week. The weather has been cold and damp with only the occasional glimmer of sunshine. The grape picking is finished. Woodsmoke is curling out of the chimneys. The autumn classes have begun.

The special exhibitions for Cluny 2010 are drawing to a close this week so it was our last chance to visit Cluny, apogée de l’art roman – Cluny, the peak of Romanesque Art. This exhibition was co-ordinated by the chief curator of the British Museum and it brings together works of art from many museums and private collections.

 

Many of the sculptures are from various Clunaic sites including Lewes in southern England, and they show the evolution and influence of Cluniac art throughout Europe. The many remnants from the cloisters that were built about 1115 show the artistic wealth of Cluny Abbey at that time.

 

Amongst the sculptures was perhaps the most famous of them all, the Paschal lamb, the Christian symbol that has been used in Cluny to mark out the tourist trail around the town.

The Paschal Lamb

The Paschal Lamb

After the French Revolution much of the Abbey was destroyed and sold off for its stone. So many old houses incorporate decorated carvings. At that time fancy carving was right out of fashion so many of the stones were used with just the flat side showing. So until a house is demolished it is difficult to find these pieces. A particularly fine one was discovered in a house in our village.

We went to the floor above in this ancient mill to marvel at the illuminated manuscripts which were written in the scriptorium of Cluny Abbey in the 11th and 12th centuries. The colours of the illustrations remain fresh and vivid. There were not just scriptures from the Bible but biographies such as The Life of Blessed Gerald of Aurillac by St Odo of Cluny. A book that especially interested me was one showing full page paintings of musicians. They wore bright tunics with embroidered edges and woolly tights. Some wore three-quarter length trousers that wouldn’t look out of place today. But none seemed to wear shoes. So life in the 12th century was probably merrier than I would have  thought but imagine the chilblains.

The sarcophagus

The sarcophagus

We had visited the exhibition with our neighbours and on our way through the Abbey we had stopped to look at a new exhibit, a sarcophagus which had been discovered recently in the excavations at the south side of the Abbey. It had been found by archeologists who were staying in our neighbours’ gîte. Despite not having lived here very long, the more we learn about Cluny, the Abbey and the surrounding area, the more ‘connected’ we feel.

August 7, 2010

Medieval Cluny

Filed under: Events,Places — Tags: , , — Mary @ 23:02
Restored medieval house

Restored medieval house

Today started like any other Saturday morning. We went to Cluny to buy carrots for the horse and to say hello to the many friends and neighbours who we are sure to meet in Cluny market.

There is an exhibition on at the Ecuries St Hughes. It is ‘Des Pierres et des Hommes’ showing the architecture of Cluny between the 11th  and the 14th centuries. As it runs until September we thought we’d better visit it now as we are very good at thinking about going to things and then suddenly finding they have been and gone.

A similar medieval house that has been altered

A similar medieval house that has been altered

We were shown round by the guide who usually takes visitors around Cluny in his little buggy, grounded today as the centre of  Cluny was closed for market day.  He showed us drawings of medieval houses before they were destroyed. There are reconstructions of interiors and windows, and pieces of intricately carved stone decoration that have been recovered, often hidden behind newer façades.

When the Abbey was built in the 11th century the town of Cluny sprang up around it to house all the workers who of course used their masonry and carpentry skills to build and decorate their own houses. The same carvings are to be seen on houses as in the Abbey. There was a particular style of house in Cluny. On the ground floor was a large arched doorway which led into a workshop and storage space for goods which were sold on the pavement outside. The living room was upstairs, accessed by a staircase from the small entrance to the side. People in those days thought it healthy to have plenty of air so the ceilings were very high.

The most distinctive feature is the clerestories or small arched windows in the upper floor. These had seats at each side and the idea was to sit and talk to your spouse dressed in your finery so that people passing on the street would look up and admire you and your wealth. The more clerestories the better.

Cluny remained pretty well in its original medieval state until the French Revolution when the Abbey was plundered for its stone. There was a frenzy of rebuilding and change. Medieval facades were regarded as ugly and the windows were knocked out and replaced by bigger, more modern ones. The intricate decoration was chiselled off  and the stone lintels broken. Some stones were used again but with just the plain side showing.

The destruction of medieval Cluny continued until quite recently. Strict planning laws came into force only about thirty years ago and by then it was too late to save many old houses.

Fredéric Sartiaux, author of 'L'abbaye de Cluny'

Fredéric Sartiaux, author of 'L'abbaye de Cluny'

Anyway, to continue, we saw some photos of houses that have been restored in the nearby streets of rue de la République and rue d’Avril.  At the top of rue de la République by the well is the house shown in the top photograph. We were taking photos when the owner of an adjacent house arrived. When we explained we had just seen the exhibition he invited us into his house which was also built in the 11th century but had been modernised (2nd photo). His plan is to slowly convert it back to how it was originally. When we looked closely we could still see evidence of the clerestories and the original doorways.

With  our heads full of all this history, we returned via rue Lamartine and outside the bookshop was Fredéric Sartiaux, the author of a newly published book about Cluny Abbey. It contains beautiful photos of the Abbey and illustrations of the stonework we had just been studying.  M. Sartiaux is a most interesting fellow and I will treasure the copy he signed for us.

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