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September 23, 2011

The Sufferings of Lamartine

Filed under: People,Places — Tags: , — Mary @ 22:27

 

Objets inanimés, avez vous donc une âme qui s’attache à notre âme et la force d’ aimer ?  - Milly ou la terre natale 1826

Lamartine was the first of the romantic poets. In many ways his life and work mirrors that of Wordsworth, born 20 years later, who was the first of the English romantic poets. His work is studied by most schoolchildren in France.

He was not only a poet but he became one of the most well known politicians in Europe. He was instrumental in abolishing slavery and the death penalty, and encouraged the working class revolution by promoting the right to work.  He set up and declared the 2nd Republic. However as a political idealist he was unpopular with the bourgeoisie and his support rapidly waned.  Bonaparte, later Napoleon III, trounced him and replaced Lamartine as President in 1848. Lamartine retired a broken man and devoted himself to writing in a hopeless effort to pay off his debts.

Lamartine lived for most of his life in the area between Cluny and Mâcon. To understand more about him  we have visited most of the places on the Lamartine Trail, namely the chateaux at St Point, Berzé and Pierreclos. And the house in Mâcon where he was born which is now the Lamartine museum.

Lamartine's house at Milly

Lamartine's house at Milly

We have gradually pieced together some notion of his work and significance. But none of these other places gave us as much insight into Lamartine’s life as the house where he spent his youth at Milly-Lamartine. We were shown round by M. Sornay who is a descendant of the family that acquired the house in 1861.

Owner of the house M. Sornay

Owner of the house M. Sornay

This house is the keystone to Lamartine’s life. It had been built in 1705 by his great grandfather and it was surrounded by extensive vineyards. The family moved there when Lamartine was just four years old. Lamartine’s mother was devoutly Catholic and she doted on him, an only son with five younger sisters.

Lamartine wrote “There is a woman at the beginning of all great things.

She was a stickler for accuracy and when she read ‘La Vigne et la Maison’ she saw that Lamartine had described the house as being covered with ivy. As it wasn’t she promply planted ivy to save him from any criticism. She used to walk through the garden reading her breviary and Lamartine acquired from her his love of nature.

Lamartine led a tortured life. He struggled with religion. Although he was strongly influenced by the Catholicism of his mother and his Jesuit teachers he turned to Pantheism, the belief that God is not a personality but is manifested in Nature. “God is everything and everything is God”.

Lamartine’s story is one of obsession, despair and loss. To my mind he was overly attached to his childhood home and his mother. His mother died in an accident in 1929 and he became obsessed with keeping her memory alive.

St Point where Lamartine lived when he married

He had several unhappy love affairs. He wrote endlessly of his obsession for Antoniella, a peasant girl, who became ‘Graziella’ in his poems. In 1816 he fell in love with Julie Charles at a sanatorium in Aix-les-Bains. He had arranged to meet her a year later  by the lake but she was not there and he was devastated when he found she had died. He wrote of his yearning for her in  ‘Le Lac’, probably the most famous of all his poems.

By 1820 success with his poetry enabled him to marry Mary Birch, an English woman related to the Churchill family. But life was a series of tragedies as he lost a son in infancy and in 1832 his daughter died at the age of ten during a trip abroad. He and Mary seem to have remained close despite their later poverty and Lamartine’s continuing anguish about earlier relationships which he expressed in his poems.

Lamartine inherited the house in 1830 and he felt guilty because he was the only male heir and all the family property went to him. So he spent his life supporting the five sisters, so much so that he was driven into debt and was forced to sell the house in 1860. This broke his heart and it was  downhill from then. His wife died of a painful illness in 1863. Lamartine suffered some sort of attack and lay semi-conscious for more than a year before his death in 1869. He ended his life forgotten and in poverty.

Cormatin chateau

Cormatin chateau

There is a connection with Cormatin as Lamartine was a regular visitor to the Chateau as he used to visit the daughter of the owner. Later, when she married, he became good friends with her husband and he continued to visit them both.

September 17, 2011

Journées du Patrimoine 2011

Filed under: Events,Places — Tags: , , , , — Mary @ 17:02

There is a great enthusiasm here for the Journées du Patrimoine. This year sees the 28th year of the Heritage weekends. The scheme was started in 1984 by the French Ministry of Culture to ‘ensure the most important possible audience to our cultural heritage’. It has now extended to most countries in Europe.

The theme for 2011 is to highlight the influence of architects and artisans from neighbouring countries who influenced the construction and decoration of emblematic sites. For example the frescos which once decorated Cluny Abbey, like those still to be seen at Berzé-le-Chapelle, were painted in a Byzantine style by the many Italian artists employed at that time.

Part of a fresco at Berzé-le-Chapelle

Part of a fresco at Berzé-le-Chapelle

A network of labelled sites has since been instigated in an effort to protect France’s cultural heritage. One of the first three European Heritage plaques was presented to Cluny Abbey in 2007, along with the Pope’s palace in Avignon and Robert Schuman’s house in Lorraine.

Many of the places open to the public this weekend are private homes and sites not normally accessible, for example the childhood home of Lamartine at Milly-Lamartine. Others places which normally charge are free to the public. This morning we visited the museum in Cluny and the Abbey. We have been to both several times before but we appreciate them more with knowing more about Cluny and its history. We never tire of watching the 3D film representing Cluny Abbey as it was in the 13th century.

Cluny Abbey

Cluny Abbey

We met some neighbours this morning in Cluny who said they visited a different town every year. Tomorrow they are going to the Abbey at Paray-le-Monial. We will not go so far for our outing for tomorrow afternoon, perhaps to the walnut oil factory in Charnay-les-Macon, then to the Chateau d’Aine near Azé. Tomorrow is also the Journée du Cheval so it’s open day at the stables, and there’s a pony club competition in Cluny……. On verra.

October 18, 2009

Oysters and Lamartine

Filed under: People,Places,Village Life,Weather — Tags: , — Mary @ 09:59
Chateau Lamartine

Chateau Lamartine at St Point

What a change in the weather! Although it’s been sunny most days this week it has been freezing at night; we’ve seen minus 4 and 5 in the mornings. Today there has been a very cold wind. It’s difficult to find out from the locals if this is exceptional but I don’t remember such cold weather last year until well into November. It is nice though to have the log stove going. Everyone here heats their houses with wood. It is said to make you warm three times over; first cutting it, then stacking it and lastly by burning it.

The activities in the village continue. Last night there was a folk dance in the village hall. I think we need to go to some of the practices that are held every two weeks in preparation for such events. However French folk dancing is quite slow and very repetitive so it is quite easy to pick up.

A very popular annual event was held this morning. It was the ‘Fête de 1001 Huîtres’. This heralds autumn as traditionally oysters are not transported this far inland in the warmer summer weather. The oysters were brought from different areas of the Atlantic coast, from Normandy to the very south west of France. Apparently the oysters from more northerly parts are more salty but I cannot vouch for this as I was just a spectator to this event.

We’ve been continuing our study of Lamartine the famous poet and politician by visiting the second of his chateaux at St Point. He lived there after his marriage in 1820 and he is buried there near the Romanesque church at the bottom of his garden. We followed the Lamartine Route past the Chateau at Milly-Lamartine where he spent his childhood and stopped to see the Chateau at Berzé-le-Châtel which is a landmark to the famous wine village of Pierreclos. Berzé is a most impressive chateau you could ever wish to find. It dates from the 14th century and would make a fine backdrop for any film featuring medieval times.

October 12, 2009

Pumkins and Poets

Filed under: Events,People,Places — Tags: , — Mary @ 20:06
Pumkins

Pumkins and Squashes

This weekend’s event in Cluny was the Fêtes de la Pomme organised by La Forêt Fruitière. As expected there were a lot of apples there, hundreds of different apple and pear varieties on show . But I didn’t expect to see such enormous swathes of marrows, squashes and pumpkins. Some were so exotic looking they didn’t seem real. Some were like turbans, some like snakes or swans, round ones, long ones, stripey ones, red ones, yellow ones, green ones. Tons of them.

We just seem to be hovering on the brink of Autumn. It is definitely cooler and we had a rainy day last week and a bit of morning mist in the valley. The the leaves are just beginning to turn and we were thinking about lighting the wood stove. But today the sun is out again and the sky is blue as if the weather is not going to surrender just yet.

Back to school! I have started my French lessons again and Jeannette, my teacher, is trying to introduce me to Alphonse de Lamartine, the famous poet and politician. Apparently the area around Cormatin is a magnet for students of Lamartine. We visited the Lamartine museum in Mâcon where he was born, and on the way home stopped to look at the Chateau at Milly-Lamartine where he spent his childhood. We could only look through the great iron gates as the Chateau is open only in the summer. He had many friends in Cormatin and spent a great deal of time here. I wonder if he visited La Maison du Curé?

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