Mont Blanc
The hill that runs past our house climbs steeply up over the ridge to Donzy le Pertuis, nestling high on the side of the next valley. From the top of the hill we always look out for Mont Blanc which lies 180km to the south east. The weather this week has been very clear and sunny so Mont Blanc has been easy to spot, the snow glittering in the sunshine.
When we mentioned this to some people they would not believe us. So today we decided to go closer for a better look. Off we set heading east across the River Saône into the Bresse region. To us in Soâne-et-Loire, going ‘over the river’ means entering foreign lands. Ain, in the Rhône-Alpes, is very flat with large fields, and the Bresse farmhouses are very different with their brick and half timbered ‘longhouse’ appearance. Very soon the Jura mountains loomed up and we were into hairpin bends, rocky chasms and pine forests. There were many cyclists on the roads (don’t they know it’s hilly in the Jura?) but very little traffic. Soon we emerged Narnia-like into a land of Swiss chalets, alpine meadows and clanging cowbells.
Giant bike in the Haut Jura
We found to our joy that we were following the route of this year’s Tour de France. We had seen the beginning of Stage 7 near Tournus, and we were amazed to find out how far they had cycled that day (165.5km) and how steep and twisty the road was to Station des Rousses. That was described as a ‘medium mountains’ stage, an easy day for the riders. In the Haut Jura there was village with a 10m wooden bicycle made of wood. Apparently it was a copy of the Maire’s bike but 10 times as big!
We climbed over the final mountain before us was Lake Geneva and a wonderful view of Mont Blanc. And we have the photos to prove it!
Racing through the village
Everything is happening this weekend. Businesses have shut up shop for the whole of August and on the TV we have seen the usual exodus from Paris. The first Saturday in August is called ‘Black Saturday’ as it is the busiest day of the year on the motorways down to the South of France.
As it’s the first weekend of the holidays every village seems to be holding its fête or puce or foire. Our neighbour was saying that there were so many events to visit that she was staying at home!
Cormatin was full of visitors today as Les Rendez-vous de Cormatin has begun. This is the 18th annual theatre festival. Over the next three weeks there are going to be 40 performances of drama and opera performed by several companies well known in France. Most will be held at the Château. Hopefully the weather will be fine as some performances will be held in the outdoor theatre.
But the weather wasn’t fine today. After a sunny morning and a sudden rise of temperature a storm blew up very suddenly and we must have had a good inch of rain in an hour or so*. Unfortunately the storm arrived midway through the local cycle race. The route was 15 laps of a circuit of 6km through the village. So, unlike the Tour de France, if you blinked and missed the cyclists you had only to wait ten minutes and they would come past again.
*Just heard that Sennecey Le Grand, not far away, had 30mm in half an hour
Showjumping at Cluny
For the last four days Cluny has been taken over by horses. Over 700 of them aged 4,5 and 6 years are taking part in the inter regional competition which will qualify them to enter the National Finals for young horses in Fontainebleau. The event also includes tests and training to prepare them for their future careers.
I still cannot believe that we live a just a few km away from one of the most exciting venues for horses in Europe. This afternoon two jumping competitions were in full swing at the Equivallée. You can wander round or sit and watch wherever you like. I am always interested to watch the horses in the practice rings and mingle with the owners and riders.
The Haras promises many events for this special year of the Cluny 2010 celebrations. On Tuesdays evenings of 3rd, 10th and 17th August there is the Cavalcade des Peuples, staged in the courtyard of the magnificent Haras stables. This is a procession of carriages and costumes depicting the life of the horse in different countries which promises to circumnavigate the world in 90 minutes. The stunt riders will do their utmost to impress with their daring acts, perhaps in the roles of cowboys, picadors and cossacks.
There are plenty of horse shows at the Equivallée in Cluny during the summer, not forgetting the horse racing at the Hippodrome on the 7th and 22nd August.
By the way, have you noticed those black clouds in the photo? The last few days have been a welcome relief from hot sunshine and temperatures in the 30s. The garden has greatly appreciated the downpours and the melons and courgettes are growing like Topsy.
de Gaulle in Cuisery
Rain, rain, go away……..
It’s hardly stopped raining this week. We envy friends and family in the UK who are basking in the sunshine. We too are turning brown, but with rust. Let’s hope the rest of the summer makes up for the miserable weather we have been having for most of May and June.
We were at Cluny market as usual this Saturday morning and we ducked into an exhibition to get out of the rain. There was a display of photographs of the time when President de Gaulle visited Cuisery in 1947. He drove through Cormatin on the way but didn’t stop!
I wasn’t too bothered about reading about the political situation and his reason for visiting Cuisery. But what fascinated me was the photos of his family. His four brothers in their uniforms (they all survived the war). His three children and the tragedy of his younger daughter who had Down’s syndrome and died aged 20. Also the pictures of farming in the 1940s before mechanisation arrived.
This area has many connections to another president, Francois Mitterrand. The Roche de Solutré became very popular since he used to climb it every Pentecost Monday until he died. This pilgrimage became a ritual and all his close friends and family, ministers and courtiers, had to be seen following him up the hill. Of course he was Maire of Chateau-Chinon in Nièvre for 22 years but our part of southern Burgundy was his favourite place.
 "The chateau at Pierreclos")